Posts tagged “via alpina

breathe in the snowflakes

I’ve managed to catch some breath from work and actually sort, edit and so on all the pictures from the Via Alpina trip this year. More emotions from the trip are also on the way.

pictures here

 

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I earned this vol VI

I’ve fallen a bit behind with this post, but nevertheless here it is.

Now to make sure that my trip wasn’t all about snakes and bad weather – here are things that made  the  34 days of walking  the best thing that I have ever done.

The simplicity of what I was doing. Walking. Obviously. It’s like the most simple thing you can do – put one foot in front of another, repeat. (more…)


I earned this vol IV

I have finished with the pictures. It wasn’t very easy sorting through 1000+ of them, stitching them into panoramas and going through them trying to select out the one to share with others. Nevertheless I managed to make a selection of 400 which are available in the usual gallery – Via Alpina 2011.

Now as I needed something for my fathers 50th birthday and I had the idea of printing out one of the bigger pictures to hang on the wall. Wasn’t very shure how it would turn out ’cause my Panasonic TZ4 allows only about 3200×2400 with 12 megapixels. Gave it a try and here is the actual result. I consider it to be pretty impressive and it really is high quality.

Got me thinking and here’s what I came up with.

How would you feel about sponsoring my next trip and in return get something like that on YOUR wall? To be honest this won’t be very cheap to have a photo that big ‘because the photo laboratories charge quite a lot depending on the end product. So browse through the gallery for this year and also the first part and if you see something of interest then let me know and we can figure out the details.

So enjoy, I certainly did.

I earned this – vol Ivol IIvol III


i earned this vol III

The absolutely worst day of the trip and possibly of my whole life.

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i earned this vol II

Snakes. They creeped me out too. And I saw more of them than I have ever seen in my life in just three days. And as one can imagine this is the post about what I didn’t like during the walk through the Alps. Word of caution. Some highly aggressive ranting is going to follow and lots of fucks.

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i earned this vol I

So I’m back from my 5 weeks in the Alps and now I’ll try to pull off a series of a posts covering some aspects of my walk. I will start with a brief overall statistics and some teaser pictures.

So I started on 6th of June with a flight from Riga to Munich and from there via trains to Ehrwald, which is only a few kilometers away from Bieberwier, where I ended up last year. From there it took 34 days (315 hours) to cover about 1070km.

Took one rest day during that period.

Visited Germany, Austria, Italy, Lichtenstein, Switzerland and France

The average distance covered was 31,5km and depending on the day it took about 10 hours to cover. Some days were better though and therefore the overall average speed is near 3,4 km/h. I felt pretty strong on the ascents, but not so on descents, but maybe I was just careful. I believe that on most days I would have been able to go on for another 10km or so.

About 1/3 of days it rained or was cloudy so it’s suitable to call that part “the imagination tour”. The rest was pretty sunny – ocaasionally too sunny ’cause I managed to burn my nose again. Although I was dressed pretty lightly – shorts and a longsleeve and the SilPoncho when it rained I generated enough heat to keep warm in temperatures between 10-15 C.

The overall expense of this trip went much higher that I expected. Mainly because I overshopped, slept too much indoors – 9 nights total of 37. One of those was in a sheperd hut I used, but didn’t have to pay for and one was in an airport. Also paid once for camping, ’cause I needed to get human like again before going to trains and planes. Food prices in Switzerland are just ridiculous and the money you have to give away in mountain huts and restaurants is just insane. But the added price isn’t constant for everything – for example ice cream (very expensive) is about the same price as in supermarkets, but the price of bottled water is 5x higher. Once I cashed out 9 euros for 1L of water. How stupid is that?

Mostly I drank from streams and wells making sure that there is no cattle upstream. NEVER used any water purification method and NEVER had any bad consequences – which doesn’t mean that you can get away that easily anywhere. I did check the water for small particles of course so if I could see anything floating around in my bottle it was a no go. The best place considering drinking water was Scuol, because it had MINERAL WATER coming from various fountains all over town. How cool would that be to have at your home?!

The paths. I walked basically every surface one could imagine – except lava rock. The waymarkings were usually pretty good, but going down to decent in some places. There were streches where the Via Alpina markings weren’t to be seen for days, but as long you went in the same general direction it was OK. In some higher passes where there was plenty of snow I had some trouble finding the markings, but that was due to bad weather and I will come to that in a later post.

Camping. I usually went on as long as I found a campsite that satisfied me. Again very wide range of ground, but mostly soft and even enough. On few occasions I had to settle for a under satisfactory conditions – meaning I was on a slope or that the ground was so uneven that I could comfortable sleep only in one position. On about half the nights I slept outdoors I had the tarp set up or half set-up so I could pitch it in a matter of seconds. I made a habit of always having a plan how to pitch the tarp, if the weather changed quickly and it started to rain. On only one night, when I didn’t have a plan I was punished with a violent thunderstorm that lasted half a night. It wasn’t very pleasant to try and pitch the tarp in the middle of night on a shitty ground and then hold on to the tarp with both of your hands, while the wind is doing it’s best to sherd it to pieces. Next time I pitched it good and slept OK during an another thunderstorm.

Food. As last year pasta became my main dish. I cooked only once per day to save gas and time. To go with the pasta I used mainly Knorr dehydrated soups. Worked pretty well. In the mornings I ate cereal and gorp and cereal bars and chocolate during the day. My big favourite was a 600gr package of nuts covered with chocolate that can be found in COOP. When in town I tried to gorge on everything I had craved during the days when I had to keep simple diet. And that did the main damage to my bank account. The few times I ate “out” or actually “in” it was mainly pizza although as the prices went up my appetite went down – not ready to pay 20 euros for a pizza. Once I had lasagne and that proved quite under average, but a tiramisu cake in the same town was heavenly.

I was alone 98% of the timeon the trail. Although I saw other hikers they were usually going in the other direction. When I got near Chamonix it got really crowded, with everybody doing the Tour du Mont Blanc. I think I didn’t see as many people during the first 4,5 half weeks than I saw on the last two days. Not complaining at all. I can say that nobody could match my pace, ’cause there wasn’t anyone who came from behind and passed me – expect some bikers and trailrunners. I managed to leave some bikers behind myself 😀

I think that’s enough for now. I’ll have worst and best experiences and also some gear talk in later posts. And pictures when I’m done sorting and editing the 1000+. And maybe a video for those lazy enough willing not to bother clicking through the final cut of the pictures.


does internet porn know you’re cheating on it?

To please the old gods of mountain and weather we sacrificed a pig on Saturday.

I have all the gear, maps, willpower.
I have some food and Swiss franks, which look like tickets to the art-museum.
I have no idea how this will turn out or if I will get any gas from Ehrwald.

I’ll be back on 13th of July


dominating love-slave

Finally ALMOST done with my maps. So much easier this year cause I scanned the paper maps I bought using a much smaller dpi setting – only 300, but the end product turned out great. One mistake I made though. I bought a bunch of maps online and they’re fine although later i discovered an online source that lets you create pdf files of ALL the Switzerland at very high resolution. Those actually printed much better than the one’s I scanned and arranged myself. Could have saved some coin when had that source sooner.

The source is switzerlandmobility.ch and it has about a ton of useful features. It can display mountain biking routes, canoe routes, walking and so on. You can choose the scale you want your maps to be in and you can go down to 20k ,which is very-very accurate. I made mine in 50k cause that’s accurate enough for me, has all the contour lines and doesn’t need that much paper to be carried. Also my other maps are in this scale. All together it’s 17 A4 sheets printed both sides. It replaces I think about 15-20 big maps (1m2) each. Much easier to carry, fold and use and if something happens to them it’s just paper. To keep them form elements I went a different way this hear using a hint by Andrew Skurka. Last year I laminated each sheet. That worked quite fine, but I this year I store all the maps in a big 28×40 ziplock bags and have another bag for the one I’m currently using.

Now all I have yet to do with maps is to trace the path out and mark the resupply points.


scream like you mean it

It’s official now. I’m leaving on 6th of June to Munich to continue my walk in the Alps. Ill try to catch the flight back on 12th July from Geneva. Flying back was a bit tricky to figure out cause there weren’t many good flights available. I tried directly to Tallinn, to Riga and to Stockholm, but those proved too expensive or long with many transfers. but through Helsinki was easy enough although I have to spend about 15 hours in Copenhagen.

So basically I have about 34 days to cover the distance of approximally 1000 km or more 😀

Bought some gear too, but about that when it arrives. Id still like to get a new sleeping bag and trail shoes, but I have my eye on some items.


te quiero, puta

So I have booked the ticket to Munich to continue my walk on the Via Alpina Red trail. I’ m leaving on 6th of June. From there I have to take two trains to Ehrwald and then I’m on foot again for about a month.  The plan is to reach the Jungfrau and from there it should be fairly easy to get to Bern and then home. Ideally I would push longer and harder and reach near Genf, but that would be really-really good. On the map below this would be starting a bit right from Liechtenstein and to Chamonix.  Gotta start packing soon.


pa-pa-pap-pa-paa

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Basically I’m to lazy to write about each day, but I’ll try to make a brief overview about the little trip I had in June in Alps.

First of all I’m extremely pleased that I did this – the nature, the process of walking for quite a long time, being alone with my thoughts, testing myself, experiencing weather from hot, sunny days to snowstorms and heavy rainfall – it was just so grand for me and totally suited my own nature. I didn’t experience any extreme nirvana nor did I find the meaning of life (at least not the whole meaning), but in all I enjoyed almost every little moment on and off the road. Yes I had times not so thrilling like wet boots for like a  week or one or two snowfields too many on the route, but I consider it an experience to learn from.

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About the gear.  Without food I carried about 10kg of equipment. I was mostly totally self supported – only needing to buy food occasionally and the water of course was essential. I’ve read quite a lot about lightweight hiking now and I definitely could and should go lighter in the future. Food added about 3-4kg depending on the distance to next supply possibility. Occasionally I totally overbought food and had like half a liter of milk in a glass bottle with me.

The gear worked well and I had only  very few items with me that I didn’t actually need or use, but that was mostly because the conditions were good enough. For example I didn’t need the extra stove for different gas cartridge type, head torch, didn’t take any medicaments or had to repair anything except for my spork which actually broke before the trip. via alpina ´10 602I broke my walking poles, but I couldn’t repair them there. My boots were wasted in the end of the trip, but considering that they were quite old already and seen some trails that didn’t bother me much. I was totally surprised that I managed with only two 230gr Primus gas canisters with my Primus EtaExpress, although I cooked like two warm meals most days or just boiled water for food. In the end I just burned the last one empty and it had 15 minutes of gas left in it. One thing that bothered me about the stove was that the piezoelectric igniter wasn’t able to ignite the gas in higher altitude, but having matches solved that problem. The Ferrino bivy bag totally failed the one time I used it in a few hours of rain one night, but that shouldn’t be a surprise considering the price. For the most part I think I made quite good choices from the gear available.

The point I’d like to mention separately from the rest of gear is maps. If I had gone with big maps for the whole trip then i would have had like 8 A2 sheets with me. I didn’t consider that to be very practical. So I bought the maps, scanned the parts I needed, edited them together in GIMP so they would fit on A4. I printed those double sided and laminated so they could take some abuse. Latter proved a very good idea. So I went with 5 paper sheets for maps. I had to buy two additional maps in the end phase. Handling them proved to be much more complicated and thankfully it didn’t rain.

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About the regime. In the walking phase I had 27 days on the move, 1 forced rest day and two shorter days that can be considered rest days. The forced rest was because of snowstorm. I covered about 750km, that is about 27km per day. The time on the move was about 270 hours, that is about 10 hours a day. Woke up at 6 and was on the move at 7-7.30. On very few days I woke about an hour later. Went to sleep around 9-10. The longest day on the move was about 14 hours.

I can’t say the some day was so exhausting that I couldn’t go on the next day. The sleep wasn’t actually very good throughout the trip. Don’t know why, but I found myself checking my watch at about 2 hour intervals even when I slept in bed.via alpina ´10 251

Health. You don’t have to guess twice – blisters on blisters. Left Achilleus went numb in the beginning. Hurting occasionally, feeling  funny but minimum hindrance. DeepFreeze and band-aid were my best friends. In the last few days during the longer descents knees weren’t so good. Sunburn, especially on the nose. Last year I burned my knees while wearing shorts – this year only decent tan. Health was very good.

People I met. During the month I had on 1,5 unpleasant encounters with locals. The .5 was just person losing interest in me when I told that I don’t have enough money to pay for accommodation. The other one is a different story. I had walked about 3 hours that day and came to a hut serving food. Nothing special: just beer, sandwiches  – just like every other hut and with prices like every other hut. Now I was just taking a short break behind the tables outside. I was asked if I wanted something by the owner of the place – some old guy. He got really pissed when I couldn’t get his hilly-billy accent. Before I left I wanted to use the toilets for number two. Old guy probably saw me through the windows, cut through the house and met me in front of the toilets. Over the noise of the generator he tried to explain how badly I’m behaving when I didn’t make him any profit and now was trying to use the toilets that he has spent so much money on. He went on and on about he has spent so much money on the hut and he can’t make living like that. My German isn’t that good so I didn’t start to argue about it. Just took my things and left, walked about 10 minutes and shat in the bushes. Fuck you old man and you comfortable toilets! When I started to think about it later I got really pissed. Here’s why. The hut is about 10km from the nearest town and has a road leading to it.  In town beer costs about 0.50 to 1 euro and that is in a shop. If you buy a bigger amount and from a dealer then it’s even less. In the hut it’s 3 euros. Now this guy had a car by the house that could carry about 10 cases of bottled beer in one go. Also he had like 50 cows on the field meaning that he probably doesn’t buy milk, cheese or meat or buys in small quantities. The hut was basically an old farmhouse, built hell knows when. That penny-pincher (taken from a dictionary) is making profit of a lifetime in there and doesn’t like me using his toilet. Like said I got really pissed about that guy. Fortunately that was the last of that kind of experience.

I didn’t see much of walkers in the beginning, but the crowds grew as the season became more favorable and I reached more popular and accessible places. Most of the people I came across to  were elder people and there  was really lot of them. Going from hut to hut, taking their time and enjoying the free time available to them. The occasional locals I met on the path or in my campsites or in the huts take interest in where are you coming from and what you’re up to. Big thanks goes to my German teachers – I think I managed quite fine despite the long years I haven’t had the chance to practice. A remark about he language they use especially in Austria – when they are talking among themselves it was almost impossible for me to understand what they were saying ’cause of the local dialect they use. Fortunately they can speak normal German too and probably change to English. But I used as little English as possible. As a matter of fact I found it difficult to switch to English when I came up to a couple who didn´t speak German.

Company. Didn’t have any 😛 Of course  there was people in huts or eating places, but everybody had their own goal and very few people went in my direction, who could keep my pace. For a day and half I hanged around with a Portugese guy – Nuno. I met him the day before I climbed Triglav. We camped together by the hut before the climb, ascended together to the top and descended to Trenta. Next morning he took his time and I was off. But it was great to talk and it always better to make a ascent that isn’t a easy walk with some company. In Trenta we had some beers and shared experience. Nuno is on his way to Monaco making the whole Red Trail in one go. I also met a older couple near Zugspitze who were on their way to Vienna.    Did I miss constant company? No. Of course it great to occasionally talk to people more than saying “hello” on the path, but I was fine.

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Highlights. In Slovenia – partisan hospital in a Gorge, climbing Triglav, the highest point in there – 2864m, almost stepping on some snake, caves in Matavun. Austria – fortifications along the Austrian-Italian border along the ridges, marmots, snowstorm, Drei Zinnen, sleeping in a tree hut, a water reservoir, mountain huts. Germany – Zugspitze, glacial valleys. And all the mountainranges, ridges and every piece of rock.

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And that’s it. The rest of the pictures are here.